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The following is a speech prepared and originally presented by Dr. Axel Arneson.
Among many other accomplishments, he founded Peaceful Bend Vineyard.

Adapted for the web by Clyde Gill

Vinous Quest In Missouri

Opportunity for me to address the American Wine Society is an undeserved privilege. I arrive without the benefit of special literary talent, and I am only lately concerned with the wine industry. My sparse qualifications rest upon a personal interest in things past, and a high regard for predecessors with forethought to record in writing the events of their time. It is thus that one can sometimes reassemble a series of related facts into a chronicle of incredible charm. Such a case, I believe, is the phylloxera trail and vinous quest that occurred in Missouri during the last half of the 19th century. Strangely enough, a retrospective view presents this story as one largely determined by the natural topography of our land, and by concurrent political unrest that occurred abroad.

British colonials gave little attention to the west. Their hands were full, and their government was similarly occupied. It was not until the turn of the 18 th century that the American government began to supply leadership and direction toward western expansion. As the movement developed, migrations followed waterways seeking protection and subsistance that lakes and rivers provide. This natural flow funneled traffic through the State of Missouri to emerge westward along the Missouri River, or more southward along the Santa Fe Trail. The territory prospered but mass movements do not alone create a culture for the community of man. In that area fortuitous events occurred.

Gottfied Duden arrived from Germany in 1824 and established a farm north of the Missouri River. Correspondence with family and friends in Giessen prompted formation a decade later of the Giessener Emigration Society. In Philadelphia emigrants from Germany formed the American Association for Bromotion of German Settlements in Western States, and followed the suggestion of a widely traveled member, Johan Wesselhoeft, to purchase 12,000 acres of land west of St. Louis along the Missouri River. Here, in the wilderness, they established the town of Hermann, properly surveyed for streets given appropriate German names. Hermann has been called the first planned parenthood city and was populated in 1838. These early settlers have been described as men who had wielded the pen but never the hoe. They had stood in the pulpit but not behind the plow. They had lectured in cathedrals and pled in courts, but they had never attempted to drive a team of oxen. They had for various reasons been motivated to forsake their native land to seek a new life and brought with them their culture, a respect for wine, and considerable knowledge of the grape. They came as intellectuals. Artisans and technicians followed in time.

In the summer of 1837 Martin Husmann, and his wife Louise Wesselhoeft Husmann, began their plans for emigration. For 20 years Martin had served as village schoolmaster and justice of the peace at Myenburg. They took shares with the German Settlement Society and with their daughter, son Frederick age 19 and young George Husmann age 9, arrived at Hermann in the winter of 1838. George had benefit of only 18 months in his father’s school. Frederick, a brilliant student, was obliged for health reasons to remain several years at the Husmann farm before returning to Philadelphia to study medicine under his uncle, Dr. Constantine Herring. During that period he tutored George in the classics and in German, English and French.

Verdant growth of wild native grapes attracted the early settlers as evidence that soil and climate were suited to viticulture. Martin Husmann, and others, were interested, but colleagues with earlier experience as vintners discouraged the project due to high costs of American labor. Despite that, however, Martin Husmann began planting a few Isabella grapes. A small crop was produced in 1845, and a little wine was made the following year. A serious attempt to establish a vineyard was begun in 1847. Three years later, George Husmann was attracted to gold fever and spent two years in California. Upon his father’s death, George returned to Hermann making the journey in a Conestoga wagon that included an assortment of grape cutting in its cargo. From that time forward he became writer, publisher, organizer, and leader in horticulture. He did for Missouri what Nickolas Longworth did for Ohio- established commercial viticulture.

Isadore Bush was born in Prague January 15, 1822. As son of a wealthy merchant he was educated by private tutors and became acquainted with some of the most noted Jewish scholars of his time. Acquisition of the Oriental Publishing House provided opportunity for expansion of his literary talents. He became editor of valuable documents which afforded considerable exemption form oppressive laws under which the Jews of Austria suffered. In support of the Jewish cause and their emigration he became embroiled as a liberal in the revolution of 1848 and was forced to flee arriving in New York City January 8, 1849. He established himself in a stationery store and began publishing "Israel’s Herald", the first Jewish weekly newspaper in the United States. The business failed, and since his wife was related to the Taussig family in St. Louis, he moved to Missouri later in the year.

Bush prospered financially and politically. In 1861 he became St. Louis representative to the Constitutional State Convention that deposed Governor Jackson and kept Missouri in the Union. Business and political problems of the Civil War prompted him to seek for his son an escape from commercial life. Viticulture had grown enormously. He sought advice and help from Husmann at Hermann and Mottier near Cincinnati. He resigned his post as agent for the Iron Mountain Railroad, a position he held from 1862-1866 and capitalization of $40,000 purchased 240 acres of land below St. Louis along the Mississippi River and turned to viticulture. His nursery at Bushberg became the largest in North America.

Dr. George Engelmann, born February 2, 1809, in Frankfort-au-Main, contributed to the development of viticulture in Missouri through his knowledge in botany. He developed interest in that area at an early age, and, indeed, his first publication, "De Antholysi Prodromu" completed requirements for his Doctor of Medicine degree at Wurzburg in 1831. He came to America the following year and in 1835 established his medical practice in St. Louis. He was responsible for identification and classification of a number of plants and trees. His meticulous data on temperature and weather are the earliest recorded in the area. To a large degree he was responsible for interesting Mr. Henry Shaw in establishing the Botanical Gardens now so well known.

Agriculture was practiced without benefit of the assistance enjoyed today. As farming depleted the land, farmers moved on to fresher soils. Agricultural colleges were in the making, but dissemination of knowledge was ineffectual. Communications depended largely upon assembly in the county and in specialty units where individual experience could be exchanged. Horticultural groups were acutely aware of need in that area. The oldest of their specialty groups, the Meramec Horticultural Society, initiated a move in 1861 to create a state agricultural agency. Action by the legislature was delayed by the Civil War and the Missouri State Board of Agriculture was not chartered until December 1, 1863. The Board did not meet, however, until December 6, 1865. George Husmann was a charter member. The stated purpose, in addition to state aid for agriculture, was to advance knowledge in this important segment of the economy by collecting and disseminating scientific information.

Fruit growers became increasingly disturbed by injurious effects induced by certain insects. In a discussion of that subject a Mr. Peschell of Hermann reported a unique method of control. Sorely troubled by beetles he noted they could be easily beaten from the vines. He employed a young boy to walk through the vineyard beating the trellises with a stick. Mr. Peschell brought up the rear herding his flock of chickens which quickly disposed of the displaced insects!

An office of entomology had been established in only two states – Asa Fitch in New York, and Benjamin Walsh in Illinois (1866). The Missouri Horticulture Society "memorialized" the legislature to authorize the appointment of a State Entomologist for Missouri. Attention was directed toward a young Englishman then working with Walsh and engaged in publishing the "American Entomologist" wherein his superior drawings used as illustrations gained applause for capability in art. Riley, born in London in 1843, was educated in France and in Germany. Upon coming to America he had gained employment in Chicago as reporter for the "Prairie Farmer". The Missouri State Board of Agriculture announced his appointment in 1869. From that time Riley prepared for the Board a total of nine successive annual reports upon Beneficial and Noxious Insects. Those reports, basic to entomology, become the most informative and the best illustrated works of their time.

Viticulture in Missouri at the time of Riley’s appointment had expanded to an annual wine production of 1,000,000 gallons. Ohio was producing three times that amount and California almost seven. Isadore Bush had, with others, organized the Bluffton Wine Company capitalized at $150,000. The company purchased 1772 acres of land along the Missouri River. Forty acres were set aside as a town site, and the remainder divided into 20 acre units for tenants. Each tenant, under a ten year lease, was given a cash payment of $150. And vines and equipment to plant six acres of grapes. During the period of the lease the company was to receive one half of the annual crop. Bush also established cellars in natural caves beneath the streets of St. Louis for producing and distributing wine. About the same time Isaac Cook established the American Wine Company in similar caves for re-fermenting Catawba wine, grown and produced in Ohio, into champagne.

The nursery at Bushberg required more supervision than Bush could provide under these new arrangements. George Meissner had disposed of his vineyard at Staten Island and moved to Waterloo, Iowa. He was brought to Bushberg as foreman in 1870, but became a partner of I. Bush and Son two years later. George Husmann appointed President of the Bluffton Wine Company moved from Hermann to the new location on the Missouri River, but all things did not prosper. The wine company failed in 1871. Bush purchased wine stocks and continued the St. Louis cellar operation. Husmann moved to Sedalia and established a nursery known later as the Sedalia Nursery, when Husmann became professor of Pomology and Forestry at the Missouri State University in Columbia (1878) Bush published his first catalog in 1869. Subsequent issue were translated into French and Italian. T. V. Munson of Texas commented that the text so modestly called a catalogue was the best biography of American grapes. The thrust in viticulture was toward the native North American varieties with a constant search for new found species, worthy seedlings, and productive hybrids. These native vines stood at the threshold of international fame.

A serious disease affecting roots of the grapevine broke out in southern France the year Riley assumed his duties as entomologist for Missouri. The disease spread with such alarm that the Minister of Agriculture and Commerce offered 20,000 francs as a prize for discovery of a practical remedy. A special commission was appointed to study the problem.

In July 1868 Professors Planchon and Lichtenstein of Montpellier reported that plant death resulted from root punctures of a minute insect, Phylloxera vastatrix, Planchon, apparently identical to the American insect described by Asa Fitch in 1856. The term "phylloxera" had been coined many years before by Boyer de Fonscalombe from the Greek meaning "withering leaf", but used at that time to designate a peculiar genus of plant lice.

The then current knowledge of the American louse is broadly exposed in Riley’s second report prepared for the year 1869. The original description made by Asa Fitch in 1856 is considered incomplete but expanded with intervening observations published in the Prairie Farmer by Dr. Walsh, Dr. Shimer, and by Riley. Studies made abroad indicated the insect existed as a gall louse affecting foliage as a borer affecting plant roots, and also as an intermediate winged form. The root boring form had not been recognized in this country. To further identification with the European insect Riley entered into correspondence and sent specimens of the American louse to M. J. Lichtenstein and M. V. Signoret. The later then diffed with Lichtenstein contending the vines died from botanical and not entomological causes. Riley in agreement with Lichtenstein wrote, "The appearance of mites in the almost inevitable consequence of diseased and rotting vegetation, but plant-lice cannot live upon such vegetation and invariably leave as soon as they have, by their punctures, reduced the healthy tissues to such a state"

The Franco-Prussion War interrupted foreign exchanges but a letter did come form Signoret "a few days previous to the investment of Paris" expressing conviction that European and American species were identical. Riley had otherwise lost contact with his correspondents, abut in an addendum to hi annual report noted that he had heard from Lichtenstein, then in Spain, and through him had received word from Signoret. The addendum reads, "Since the above was written I have heard from M. Signoret through M. Lichtenstein. Nothing daunted by the siege, the former carried on his studies of this little louse and wrote by balloon, that though he himself was reduced to cats, dogs, and horseflesh, the phylloxera, which he had in boxes, kept well and in good health. No doubt our enthusiastic friend finds much solace in thus pursuing knowledge under difficulties." The practicality for air communication under siege raises problem in logistics, but further investigation discloses that, --"during the Prussian blockade of Paris, an aeronaut named Jules Duruof carried mail out of the French capital in a leaky envelope called, "Le Neptune". The Prussians reported that the flight seriously undermined troop morale when M. Duruof dropped greeting cards on their positions".

The mechanism by which the phylloxera entered Europe aroused considerable curiosity. It was demonstrated that the insect can be transported from one location to another upon the roots of infected vines. The possibility that vines immune to the disease might act as carriers was also entertained. It is likely that the insect was carried abroad between the years 1858 and 1863. The first recognition of the phylloxera was noted in English hot houses in 1863.

The natural interests of viticulture had prompted an exchange of American and European vines in the years prior to the disease outbreak. This proved a fortuitous circumstance because in areas of essentially total vinifera destruction French scientists noted adjacent American vines remained healthy. As a consequence the concept of saving the vinifera by grafting to American roots was developed. Riley made a journey to Europe in 1871 which, in part, stimulated Planchon’s visit to America in 1872. In the attempt to stimulate research in grafting Isadore Bush shipped gratuitously a substantial number of cuttings and rootings of American stock for experimentation. Researches were also initiated at Bushberg, and in Sedalia at Husmann’s nursery. The intervening attempts at control of the epidemic included caustic sprays with chemicals such as carbolic acid, lime and sulphur mixtures, and an empyreumatical oil known as "oil of cade". Deep flooding of vineyards was also attempted where such a procedure was found possible. Sandy soil was found to provide a degree of immunity.

Advance skills of grafting and in the selection of adaptable and resistant stock necessitated better identification and classification of species and variety. That is a tedious procedure that must take into account growth, flower, fruit, and seed. The study of foliage alone is inadequate and may vary in different locations and in accordance with the age and season of plants. In the eastern portion of the United States, the natural home of the phylloxera, no additional species of grape had been added since the time of Linnaeus and Michaux though Rafinesque, Le Compte, and others, had attempted to distinguish new forms. Dr. Engelmann had added two western species. A total of nine had been identified by the 1870’s, but only four were of consequence as having yielded cultivated varieties. These where V. labrusca, Linn., or Northern Fox, V. aestivalis, Michx., or Summer Grape, V. riperia, Michx., or River Bank Grape, and V. vulpina, Linn., or Southern Fox or Muscadine grape. The five species without cultivated varieties included V. arisonica, and V. candicans (mustang grape of Texas) described by Englemann, and V. rupesrtis, Scheele, the bush or sand grape. Among the total of nine, only four occur in the wild state in Missouri: aestivalis, corditolia (winter or frost grape), riperia and rupestris.

The only species found entirely immune from attack by the phylloxera is V. vulpania, the Southern Fox grape. A high degree of resistance to root attack was found in v. aestivalis. Varieties of this species include Nortois, Herbemont, and Cunningham. Similar resistance was found for v. riparia with varieties such as Clinton, Taylor, Golden Clinton, and Marion. A lesser degree of resistance was noted for v. labrusca. A relationship between toughness of wood and phylloxera resistance is quite apparent. Some of the most resistant are almost impossible to root and must be propagated by layering. In due time v. riparia (River Bank Grape), a lightly rooted species was found well suited for accepting the vinifera graft and for presenting a satisfactory degree of resistance to phylloxera. The v. rupestris came under close scrutiny by Hermann Jaeger, a Swiss immigrant settling in Missouri in 1867. He established a large vineyard at Neosha, and in his study of rupestris identified ten varieties. M. Le Frane, Minister of Agriculture in France, expressed interest in importing suitable varieties for grafting. Bush received an order for 400,000 cuttings consigned to Montpellier and consisting of such varieties as had been recommended by Professor Planchon and by Riley. From Neosho, Hermann Jaeger shipped three carloads of rupestris and many other orders followed for several years thereafter.

Riley made reference in several reports to the risk of facing California in producing vinifera grapes. Evidence of infestation was suspected in 1860, and in 1871 the phylloxera was found, but not until the outbreak in Sonoma and Yola counties in August, 1873 did the Viticultural Club of Sonoma send specimens to Riley for identification. Root damage became epidemic in 1875. Importations of v.riparia stock from Europe failed to survive in the more arid California climate. A more deeply rooted vine was required and attention was directed to v. rupestris, the bush or sand grape. The St. George Rupestris became, until quite recently, the basic root stock employed in California.

The phylloxera trail was not completed for some years. Riley received "a grand gold medal" from the French Government, as did Jaeger in a later year. The Bushberg catalogue was translated into French by Louis Bazille, and the later into Italian. Munson of Texas wrote Bush that what he modestly called catalogue was the most extensive bibliography available upon North American native grapes. Riley completed his last report in 1877 when he accepted transfer to Washington, D. C. as Chief Entomologist for the U. S. Department of Agriculture. He has been cited for four major achievements:

  1. His initiation of an organization in Washington that grew into the Bureau of Entomology and Plant Quarantine.

  2. His studies upon the grape phylloxera instrumental in bringing that dangerous pest under control.

  3. His action in importing the Australian lady bird beetle that saved the California citrus industry by control of white scale. This was the first international experiment on natural control to be successfully completed.

  4. His responsibility in forming the U. S. Entomological Commission assigned the task of controlling grasshopper hordes that descended upon the crops in the Midwest.

Riley’s last named achievement, control of the locust, involves an interesting story. As insects moved southeastward from the upper Rocky Mountain area, they deposited eggs in occupied territory. These, in turn, hatched out to form a subsequent but briefer attack terminated by migration back in a northwestward direction. Riley’s annual report to the Missouri Board of Agriculture had reached Governor Charles Hardin shortly before such a secondary outbreak. Sensing the opportunity he decreed June 4, 1875 a day of fasting and prayer, suspended all business, seeking divine relief from the insects. Within a few days the pests were gone, much to the Governors esteem. Riley interpreted the hoax and took Hardin publicly to task, only to find himself pounced upon by a local clergy.

Dr. Axel Arneson

Epilogue

Many things in and about the above document ring loud and long in my heart, the foremost being the longing to have known Dr. Axel Arneson. Unfortunately, he passed on before I had such an opportunity. Katie and I took over the operation of Peaceful Bend a few years back, and many people have echoed to us their strong feelings concerning Dr. Arneson; none of them in the least bit negative. On the contrary, it would appear that he was quite the kind hearted gentleman, with an obvious passion for wine history, wine grapes and wine. He purchased several hundred acres along the Upper Meramec River in 1954 and used the property for a family retreat and gentleman’s farm; raising cattle, chickens and swine. In 1965, an agreement was made with the University of Arkansas, Fayetteville, to conduct a research project on the property. Approximately 8 acres of hill tops were planted in French/ American Hybrid wine grapes and the study was proceeded until 1972. When the university had collected their data, Dr. Arneson was left with a vineyard of assorted wine grapes. "When life gives you lemons, you make lemonade. When life gives you grapes, you make wine!" The main winery building, shaped like a barn, was constructed in 1972 and the winery was bonded at that time. The first vintage was released in 1974 with an annual production of 600 gallons.

This production level continued until 1991 when the Arneson’s sold the winery to a business man, Ron Wrob from St. Clair Missouri, who had made his wealth in the sporting goods business. Ron had been an avid home winemaker and was quite adapt at making wine. He increased the production of the winery to about 3,000 gallons and maintained a respectable level of quality. Most of his wine was made from juice purchased from New York state, and the vineyards were allowed to go fallow. Within 3 years it became evident that the wine industry required more effort than anticipated, and Ron placed the winery up for sale.

George Weese, a successful owner of liquor stores in St. Louis, purchased the property from Mr. Wrob in 1994, and leased the property to his new love, Judy Dubose. They had a similar experience as did Ron Wrob and within 3 years became disenchanted with the industry. The winery was again placed on the market in 1997. Katie and I did not discovery the property until the spring of 1998, at which time we began the efforts for the acquisition.

Through the years since the winery was bonded, the various owners purchased an array of equipment; though not optimum, it’s sufficient enough to make quality wine in substantial volume. The vineyards have not been properly dealt with since the original research project ended. The Arnesons cared for the existing vines, but no effort was made to remove the vines that had been deemed unsuitable for winemaking by the research. The myriad of hybrid varieties is staggering. Much of what is referred to as the "Back Vineyard", now lay completely fallow. The exception being a block of Leon Millot, Baco Noir, and Chancellor, which is currently under evaluation.

However, the "Front Vineyard" has potential for salvage, as is evidenced by the current vintage of subsequent wine production. With a repairable trellis, plus grape varieties consisting mostly of Chambourcin (also some small amounts of Chelois and Landot) , efforts are being taken to reestablish the plot for commercial production. With Katie’s tender loving care (proper pruning and spray regimen) the block produced 200 gallons of high quality grapes for the harvest of 1999.

Dr. Arneson’s speech makes mention of a few bits of history that parallel with my experiences in the Missouri wine industry. Two properties mentioned are vineyards which, at one time or another, I considered purchasing: the Husmann Farm, located along the Missouri River off of Hwy 100, and the Peschell Farm, along Hwy H, just outside of Hermann. The Husmann vineyard is being revitalized and opened as a winery; the Peschell Farm, which had no vines remaining (too visible; the Feds got to them during Prohibition) has fallen to the ostrich industry. It would appear that our destiny was Peaceful Bend, which leaves me with no regrets!

Clyde Gill

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